8 DAYS MOUNT KENYA TECHNICAL CLIMB - 8 Days Trekking - US$ 2750 per person

An 8 Days Mt Kenya Technical Hike up Africa’s second highest peak is most challenging, even for an experienced mountain climber. While it requires stamina, a rock and ice climbing background and, most importantly, a sense of adventure; this trip is not for the faint hearted. The main purpose of the hike is to conquer the peaks of Nelion and Batian. Batian (5199m, 17,057 feet) and Nelion (5188m, 17,021 feet). These are the highest peaks of Mount Kenya, and climbing to their summits is a most unique Africa mountain hiking experience. These climbs are some of the best technical alpine climbing in the world, and they are certainly the highest technical climbing routes in Africa.

There are around 35 documented technical climbing routes on Mount Kenya, but most guided climbing focuses on two routes, depending on the climbing season: The North Face Standard Route and the Normal Standard Route (also known as the MacKinders Route). Batian is climbed by the North Face Standard Route during the season of July to September, while Nelion is usually climbed by the MacKinders Route during the season of December to February. The famous ice routes of the Diamond Couloir and Ice Window face south and are best climbed from June to October, but global warming has melted these routes significantly, and they are now seldom in condition.

Technical climbs on Mount Kenya can be incorporated into a 7 or 8-day trek, but experienced climbers may be able to complete them in less time. Nelion and Batian are both composed of Syenite, a superb rough rock that is at least as good as granite for climbing. Numerous excellent rock and ice routes exist on these peaks. The main summits generally require a bivouac, but satellite peaks such as Point John offer fine one-day climbs.

When most tourist groups talk of climbing Mount Kenya, they are really referring to Point Lenana, a much easier satellite peak. The "real" Mount Kenya is a long and serious climb, involving many pitches of fifth class rock climbing. These are not trekking peaks!

Day 1: Nairobi – Mt Kenya

Pick up from Nairobi airport or Nairobi hotel for transfer to Bantu Rock Lodge for lunch. In the afternoon, take a nature walk (3-4 hours) through the forest to the MauMau caves, the former hideouts for Kenya's pre-independence guerrillas. You’ll be accompanied by a naturalist guide who will explain more about the flora and fauna of the forest. Dinner and overnight at Mountain Rock Lodge.

Day 2: Mt Kenya Sirimon Park Gate (2,600m) – Old Moses Camp (3,300m)

Leave the lodge by 10:00am together with your guide and porters and drive for approx. two hours to Sirimon Park gate (2,600m). After completing the park entry formalities and enjoying a picnic lunch, begin a 3-4-hour hike through the forested foothills of the mountain. Today’s walk will see you climb 700m through the bamboo, rosewood and heather zones to Old Moses camp. The forest and bamboo are home to buffalo, elephant, bushbuck and a plethora of bird species. Dinner and overnight at Old Moses Camp (3,300m).

Day 3: Old Moses Camp(3,300m) - Shipton's Hut (4,200m)

A long day leading to the base of the high peaks, as you trek through the moorlands and the Mackinder Valley, with good views of the main peaks and a brief stop for picnic lunch. Total walking time is approx. 7 hours, gaining 900m in altitude. Dinner and overnight at Shipton's Hut (4,200m).

Day 4: Shipton's Hut (4,200m)

Today is an acclimatization day. There will be the option to trek to Hausberg Col for fabulous views and acclimatization, or to Point John, one of Mount Kenya’s lesser peaks, where you can practice rope work and abseiling in preparation for the start of your technical climb to Nelion on the morrow.

Day 5: Shipton's Hut (4,200m) - Point Lenana (4,985m) - Austrian Hut (4,790m)

Nelion Peak Preparation: Early morning trek (3-4 hours) to reach Point Lenana (4,985m), the trekkers’ summit, in time to watch the sunrise. On a clear day you can see the snow-capped summit of Mount Kilimanjaro miles away to the south. Then, continue round and down to Austrian Hut (4,790m) where we spend the rest of the day preparing for the technical climb of Nelion peak.

Days 6: Austrian Hut (4,790m) - Technical climbing – Nelion ( 5188 meters).

Wake up at 4 am and have some tea and biscuits. Take the 2-hour trek to cross the Lewis Glacier and up to the Base of Nelion. Embark on the 6-hour rock-climbing expedition to Nelion Peak (5188 meters). Traverse the gate of mist to Batian Peak (5199 meters); the highest peak on Mount Kenya. Climb back to the Nelion Peak. Dinner and overnight at Ian Howell Hut (5,100 meters). Full board

More about the Climb

The normal route to Nelion is attempted via the southern side of Mount Kenya, and is best accessed from Austrian hut. It is an early start. After crossing the boulder field at the foot of the Lewis Glacier with head torches on, you scramble up the scree to the base of the climb. The first part of the climb can be hard as a result of the cold, and the daunting long day ahead. Generally, you have completed the first 2 pitches before first light.

Once the sun comes out, and your muscles are nice and warm, the climbing becomes even more enjoyable. As you work through the pitches you will pass famous features such as “One O’clock Gully”, “The Amphitheatre” and “De Graaf’s Variation,” which present a good mix of easy and more challenging climbing. “Baillie’s Bivvy,” a disused hut, can be considered the half-way point on this spectacular route. The summit of Nelion is generally reached in 6-8 hours.

Howell Hut, on the summit of Nelion, can be used as an overnight bivvy should the group be interested in crossing over to Batian. The crossing via the “Gate of the Mists,” involves dropping some 35m off Nelion and climbing a further 70m to the summit of Batian. The estimated time to do the crossing and return to Nelion is 3-4 hours – this is variable, and totally dependent on ice levels within the “Gate of the Mists”. A night in Howell prior to descending the following morning is an option, however, if you move fast the climb and descent is best done in a single day. Your guide will provide advice, and help with these decisions prior to, and during the climb.

Day 7: Howell Hut / Meru Bandas

On this day, if the weather was not conducive on the previous day, we proceed to undertake the climbing activities that we might have missed. This day is crucial because of the unpredictable weather in October. Dinner and overnight either at Howell Hut or Meru Bandas depending on the activities of the day.

Day 8: Howell Hut - Meru Bandas – Chogoria - Nairobi
Abseil down to the bottom about 9 ropes, 50 meters and then walk to the Austrian Hut (4,790 meters) for Breakfast. Take the descent through the Chogoria route to the Meru Bandas (2,950 meters) for lunch before being picked at the park gate for your transfer to Nairobi. Arrival Nairobi in the late afternoon and you are dropped off either at your Nairobi Hotel or at Jomo Kenyatta Airport.

Personal climbing gear:

Helmet. Harness. Crampons. Ice axe. Belay device of choice. 2 slings (1 short and 1 long). 2 locking karabiners. Quick draws. Cow-tail. Light and warm sleeping bag, bivvy bag, good mountain boots well soled for technical climbing and optional – rock shoes. Thermal gloves and leather belay gloves. Sufficient warm clothing, rain gear and wind breaker. Snacks, water bottle, protective sun cream, first aid kit etc.



Price:
US$ 2750 per person